A Taste of Athens in Randolph
by Patricia Vanderhoof
RANDOLPH - The Plaka is a neighborhood in Athens famous for shopping and boutiques, a tourist attraction from which can be seen some of Greece's most magnificent ruins. it's a highly cultural area and is vibrantly depicted in one of the splendid hand-painted murals on the walls of George and John Roussos' charming new eating establishment. Glasses sparkle; the floors are spotless. To your right is the restaurant's open kitchen and spit. as well as a take-out counter and cabinets of deep rich red. Greek music plays from the speakers, and cheerful blue-and-white-checked tablecloths add an appealing tavern touch.
"Come spring, we'll have outdoor seating," George says. "It has taken us about one year, including three full months for renovations. We opened just before Thanksgiving.
Plaka hums with call-in orders for lunch. Every authentic, tempting dish on the menu - including desserts - is homemade, on the premises, and available for for take-out.
"I don't worry about a thing with my father (Vassilios) in the kitchen. He's a superb cook," George says proudly.
"My dad was born in Athens, overlooking the Acropolis. We still have a family home there. He was working on the ships and came over to New York when he was 14 for a better life, eventually brought his family.
"My uncle was a chef on the ship and my father worked alongside him. Once in America, he cooked his own way up until he owned his own restaurants in New Jersey within six years. He was 21 when he owned his first restaurant.
"I'm older than my brother John and grew up in the diner business with my dad. Then dad retired for 12 years. We started a wholesale food business, which i still run, and take and took over the restaurant side with my brother. John decided to go back to school but also works here in the restaurant as his academic schedule permits. Of course, it's a family operation, all Greeks in the kitchen. We know every dish that goes out is top of the line, completely fresh.
"My father has a world of experience. Right now, he's working with Fotis Tsiapalos, one of our up-and-coming chefs, over from Greece only for a few weeks and learning the Plaka method. Greek food is very healthful and our kitchen is open. Even is you just order a Gyro at takeout, you see out meats are roasted on a vertical spit.
"Our prices are reasonable; the food we give here is very high quality - an a lot of it. Customers who have recently visited Greece come here and tell me they can't believe our food, that it's just like being there.
"Greeks are mostly known for dinner; but we have turned a lot of people on to Greek cuisine for lunch. They can enjoy char-grilled salmon over salad, or a Lemon Beef Gyro with meat prepared the traditional Greek way, on a spit. Most people are used to frozen patties. Not here.
Jignasa Desai McCleary, over for lunch from Picatinny Arsenal with co-worker and fellow convert Frank Di Nicola, says, "We eat here often, ever since Plaka opened. I drove past one day and said, "What's that? We're foodies and this is phenomenal food. We recommend Vegetarian Mousaka and Baklava.
Baklava is a pastry of ground walnuts, butter, almonds, sugar, cinnamon in phyllo dough, with a honey-based Roussos' sauce.
"And their Chicken Souvlaki!" ($6.95) Di Nicola adds. "But every dish is great here. We know, we've tried them all.
George Roussos continues: "Our regulars tell us we've got the best Gyro in Jersey.
A Gyro (pronounced "yeero") is the traditional Greek equivalent of fast food: pita bread filled with meat (choice of lamb, chicken, pork, beef) and vegetables, doused with tzatziki sauce - a creamy combination of yogurt, cucumber and garlic, sprinkled with paprika, ($6.50 - $7.25).
Also from the lunch menu, try Avyolemono, the traditional Greek chicken soup with egg/lemon sauce - or Soup of the Day for $2.25 - and a Plaka Greek Salad. ($6.25 - $7.86). Add grilled chicken or Gyro for just $3, shrimp or salmon for $4. Enjoy an omelette, cooked with extra-virgin olive oil ranging from $8.65 for feta and potato, to Plaka Delight for $8.95.
Platters, wraps and pita sandwiches (with sliced tomato, onion, tzatziki and paprika) are $6.50 - $8.95. The Veggie Pita Sandwich (zucchini, eggplant and tomato) is $6.50.
"This food you can't get anywhere else," George says. "At dinner we have become famous for our quails, Ortikia Sta karvouna (over charcoal fire). I can't believe what a big seller this is ($13.95). We stuff them with feta and spinach. Delicious."
Dinner entrees are served with either Greek Green Salad or choice of Lemon Potatoes, Plaka Fries, or Rice, and vegetable of the day.
Plaka fries are Idaho potatoes 3 inches long, doused with oregano, salt and pepper, grated Kegalotyri - a pale-yellow, hard Greek cheese made from sheep and goat's milk.
"We serve only the very best fish and imported seafood," George says. That includes Salmon, Cod, White Snapper, Orato, Porgy, Mediterranean Sea Bass (Bronzini), all perfectly prepared.
Thallasina "From the Sea" - entrees start at $14.95 for Kalamari Sta Karbouna (Charcoal-broiled Squid, $14.95) to Market Price.
"Our Octopus Sta Karvouna ($12.95) - which means on hot coals - is to die for. Our customers rave about it. It comes on a bed of onion, tomatoes and lemon -vinaigrette marinade:," George says. "All our food is Charcoal grilled, not fried, healthy, the Mediterranean way. We serve fish whole. Nighttimes we have Greek waiters here, very experienced, who will de-bone the fish at the table if that is the customers request. Everybody starts in the kitchen; I did, and that's how I learned.
Plaka offers extensive menu choices in addition to fish; Chops, Steaks, Mousaka, (beef or vegetarian) Macaroni, Lamb. For a special appetizer, try Dolmades ($6.25) - grape leaves stuffed with rice and herbs, steaming with lemon sauce. "I have people coming from Lake Hopatcong, Chester Hills, Kinnelon, Parsippany," George says. "Word gets around. Also St. Andrews is up the road with a large Greek population. But a lot of other nationalities have discovered us too, and come back for more."
